Category Archives: salad days

(S)quids in!

Cornish squid, simply griddled, with rosemary baked Anya potatoes

This was a supper fit for a king!

Cornish squid, marinated for 10 minutes or so in olive oil, sea salt, freshly ground black pepper + oregano, the griddled over high heat for about 2 minutes on each side.

I score the bodies of the squid lightly first, making a cross pattern with a very sharp knife, so the flavours get into the fish. It also stops it from curling up on the griddle.

We ate this with Anya potatoes roasted in a hot oven for 20 minutes with rosemary, salt & pepper and a slick of olive oil.

Dinner a deux

All this needed was a simple summer salad with Kalamata olives, little gem, watercress, cucumber and a few of those amazing looking, and tasting, tiger tomatoes.

In hindsight, I could have made some aioli to go with it perhaps? But it was a delicious, and quick and easy, supper as it was.

In case you want to make aioli, it’s worth making in a reasonable quantity. The remainder keeps, stored in a clean jar in the fridge, for a few days and is lovely as a dip with raw vegetables or smeared on a sandwich with some leftover cold roast chicken and a few green leaves.

The recipe is from one of my favourite cook books, written by the controversial former mayor of Nice Jean Medecin:la Cuisine du comte de Nice”.

I lived in Nice for a while, many moons ago, and love the city, its location by the sea but also close to the mountains and its cuisine which is a mixture of French and Italian.

One thing I never got the hang off is the Nicois dialect, but I do enjoy the fact that every recipe in the cookbook is described first in Nicois and then in French.

L’aioli” is the same in both, but for example “la sauce” is “la saoussa“, “le” is “lou” so “le pistou” becomes “lou pistou”, “le veloute de feves” (cream of broad bean soup) becomes “lou velutat de fava”.

I think it sounds very appealing!

This is what you need:

for 8-10 portions

10-15 cloves of garlic

1 raw egg yolk

1 yolk from a hard-boiled egg

1l olive oil

salt

This is what you do:

  1. peel the garlic, remove the green shoot by slicing the cloves in half
  2. pound to a paste in a pestle + mortar
  3. add the raw egg yolk then the hard-boiled yolk, combining the ingredients as you go
  4. add a bit of salt, not too much, just a pinch
  5. drop by drop, add the olive oil, incorporating every drop of oil before you add more
  6. if, once you have added all the oil, you find the consistency of the aioli too thick you can add 1 – 2 tbsp of luke warm water to loosen it a little

Summer salad with tiger toms

I left am wondering whether squid, bodies and tentacles, would be a step too far for Savvy eaters?

Best,

Monique

The Big Lunch, crespeou & gazpacho

The Big Lunch 2010

 

I think Tim Smit’s aim for The Big Lunch www.thebiglunch.com  to “get people out on their street, raise a glass and share a bite with their neighbours” was successfully met on Sunday the 18th of July. 

The turnout to our Big Lunch was excellent with c60 people joining in the celebrations. 

Everyone had been asked to bring two dishes (one main + one side) and bring a pudding if they fancied; there was a BBQ area for those who like to demonstrate their cooking skills (guess who?) and a BYO drinks tent, games + face painting and LIVE music. 

I had been asked to judge the Pavlova competition which was no mean task. In the end I chose a fabulously luscious one with passion fruit folden through the cream, topped with blackberries and lavender sprigs.  The merengue was perfect: glossy and crunchy on the outside and chewy on the inside. The runner-up was an excellent chocolate Pavlova which was decorated with mixed berries including chocolate dipped strawberries. 

Pavlova extravaganza

 

Recipes to follow as soon as I have  managed to winkle them out of the Pavlovas’ creators. 

Our contribution to the event was a gazpacho and crespeou, multi layered “cake” from Provence made up of savoury omelettes. 

Gazpacho & crespeou

 

I used three different flavours: herb, cheese and tomato, all held together by layers of fresh goats cheese. 

Here’s the recipe which is really easy; you could make the crespeou the day before and chill until needed although you may lose some of the freshness of the colours. 

It’s really very easy to do and assemble: just make sure you’ve got the mise en place ready before you start i.e. everything prepared and to hand. 

I used a medium sized non-stick fyring pan but you could create a cake with more height (and more drama!) if you used a smaller pan. 

Crespeou 

This is what you need: 

Serves 6 – 8 with salad and bread (or some chips) 

for the herb omelettes 

6 large eggs 

2 tbsp each of finely chopped parsley, chives and tarragon 

freshly ground black pepper 

for the tomato omelettes 

6 large egss 

1 tbsp tomato puree 

75g sun-dried tomatoes, snipped into small pieces (I used Merchant Gourmet’s vacuum packed ones, not the ones preserved in oil) 

freshly ground black pepper 

For the cheese omelettes 

6 large eggs 

3 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan 

freshly ground black pepper 

Filling 

250g fresh (= rindless) goats cheese (I used an organic Welsh goats cheese but you could use Chavroux or similar) 

loosened with a splash of milk or yoghurt so it becomes spreadable but not runny 

olive oil for frying 

This is what you do: 

1. for the omelettes, get three bowls ready 

2. crack 6 eggs into each bowl and add the herbs, tomatoes and herbs respectively 

3. season with freshly ground black pepper and whisk to mix well 

4. heat some olive oil in a non-stick frying pan over medium heat 

5. start with the herb omelettte and pour half the mixture into the pan; unlike a traditional omelette, after the initial stirring of the mixture in the pan, cook until set. 

6. slide the omelette onto a serving platter 

7. add a little more oil to the pan if necessary and pour in half the tomato mixture, cook as before and slide on top of the herb omelette 

8. leave to cool a little and then spread half the goats cheese mixture over the surface; make sure you go all the way to the edge of the omelette and spread as evenly as possible 

9. now make a cheese omelette with half the cheese mixture, adding a little oil to the pan if needed, and slide the cheese omelette on top of the layer of goats cheese 

10. cook another 3 omelettes as before, layering as you go 

11. remember to add the remainder of the goats cheese over the tomato omelette 

12. leave to cool and chill for a couple of hours and cut into wedes when ready to serve 

You may have noticed that I did not add any salt: I don’t think the cake needs it, because the sun-dried tomatoes and Parmesan are quite savoury enough by themselves. 

The gazpacho is based on a Moro recipe which I have used hundreds of times.  

This intensely flavoursome “liquid salad” is the easiest thing to make and I believe is at its best when it is really hot outside and tomatoes are at their reddest, sweetest, juiciest best. 

Don’t bother making this soup out of season, it’s not worth it! 

You will notice the addition of breadcrumbs: if you are familiar with the supermarket versions of gazpacho this may come as a surprise, but I think it adds some body and texture which I like. 

Once the soup has been thoroughly chilled (at least 2 hours in the fridge) you can serve it as it is, or add some bits of Serrano ham, hard boiled eggs or extra tomato/pepper/onion. 

It’s up to you. 

Gazpacho 

This is what you need: 

Serves 4 

1 kg tomatoes, washed + chopped into 4 

3 garlic cloves, chopped very finely or pushed through a garlic press 

1 green pepper, washed, deseeded and chopped roughly 

3/4 cucumber, peeled and chopped roughly 

1/2 medium onion, grated finely 

2 large handful of breadcrumbs, made from decent bread crusts removed 

3 tbsp red wine or sherry vinegar 

4 tbsp olive oil 

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 

This is what you do: 

1. Using a blender or food processor, add all the ingredients to the bowl 

2. whizz until smooth but with some bits of tomato and green pepper still visible 

3. if you want a smoother texture, then push 1/2 the mixture through a mouli 

4. check for seasoning and check again once chilled before serving 

5. this soup is quite thick but you can add some ice cubes before serving if you want a thinner soup 

I like to serve gazpacho in clear tumblers or in clear glass bowls. 

Sometimes I use (these so kitsch they are stylish) 1970’s glasses which I think were originally intended for prawn cocktails. They consist of two clear glass pieces: a bowl with a dish that hangs in the bowl and I put crushed ice in the bottom bowl. 

Salad in a glass! Can’t think of anything better when it’s hot. 

Enjoy. With a glass of French rose. 

Monique

Favourite lunch this week: smashed peas, dill and Feta

I made this for Tuesday’s Women’s Food & Farming Union London’s meeting and it was very well received.

If you like fresh, zesty and texture this is for you!

Really quick and easy to make and works a treat with frozen peas until fresh peas are in season (June).

You could try substituting the dill with mint (but use less because mint easily overpowers everything else) or do half -and-half.

Blobbed onto toasted sourdough or Ryvita pumpkin seed crackers or scooped up with individual little gem lettuce leaves…

No picture I am afraid: I was in too much of  a hurry to take one when preparing for the WFU meeting and so greedy to eat the left-overs the next day I forgot…

I can tell you it looks beautiful: pea-green (obviously) with flecks of dark green + bright white.

Waitrose sell bags of ready washed pea shoot which would make a lovely garnish, but why not grow your own? A lot cheaper and fun.

Serves 4 as a starter

You will need:

150g peas (podded weight if using fresh)

1 garlic clove, green shoot removed and chopped very finely or use a garlic press or pestle & mortar

4 tbsp finely snipped fresh dill

100g Feta, crumbled

25g freshly grated Parmesan

2 tbsp lemon juice

2.5 tbsp olive oil (I have just opened a bottle of 2009 oil from the Fattoria La Vialla estate in Italy – very grassy + peppery, delish!)

This is what you do:

1. blitz the peas in a food processor: pulse for short burst, you want the peas to retain some shape. If using frozen, don’t bother defrosting the peas first.

2. tip into a bowl

3. add all the other ingredients and mix lightly until paste-like

4. check the seasoning: you’ll probably want to add some freshly ground black pepper but won’t need to add salt because the Feta and Parmesan add enough

5. now you are ready to tuck in but have a good sniff (or lung full) first: Spring on a plate!

Bon appetit!

Monique

Tiger tomatoes

Came across these amazing tomatoes at Cowdray Park Farmshop http://www.cowdrayfarmshop.co.uk/ the other day.

I was really excited to hear that a new farm, worked on traditional farming principles and open to schools and the public, will be created within the boundary of Cowdray Park. The farm is being developed in partnership with Natural England and will be operated by Cowdray Home Farms, for the benefit of children and adults, as a working example of farming techniques, countryside stewardship and environmental management.

Back to the tomatoes!

The pics don’t really do them justice, but the small round ones on the vine have very distinctive stripes: green on a red background.

I call them “tiger tomatoes” but I am sure that is not their proper name.

San Manzano midi pepper plum + tiger tomatoes

Orange San Manzano midi pepper plum + tiger tomatoes

The other ones are called “orange San Manzano midi pepper plum”.

Both have a mild, sweet flavour, ideal for adding “wow” to salads and the San Manzanos for roasting as well.

The vine ones turn a kind of overall black when exposed to heat, so really are best eaten raw to maximise the impact of their unusual colouring.

Monique

Rhubarb ramblings…and elderflower

Earlier this year I had a thing for tarragon and now it’s rhubarb.

Can’t quite explain how these things float up to my conscious mind until they become a minor obsession – almost.

Possible reasons:

1. My mother, who loves rhubarb, is coming to stay in a couple of weeks.

2. It is the season for rhubarb, not the forced variety which is available from Jan – April, but the rhubarb which is grown outdoors from May – Sep.

3. My first (Dutch) friend, aged 3, was called Barbara but I called her rhubarb – which (before you start to think how sad that I lost the plot at such a young age) is quite close to the Dutch word for rhubarb: rabarber. This also reminds me of an interesting chat I had this week about language – but that is a story for another time.

3. Savvy Cook was baking delicious rhubarb polenta cakes this week.

4. to stay in my other half’s good books I made a rhubarb and almond sponge pudding the other day ….it was a bit of an experiment, but a successful one and for those if you who want it I am happy to let you have the recipe (really more a case of assembling a few ingredients if truth be known).

Here are couple of things I have gleaned about rhubarb which I want to share with you.

Rhubarb facts

Nutrition: rhubarb is very low in calories, about 21 per 100g and it contains lots of vitamin C and fibre.

History: rhubarb was first grown on the banks of the Volga in Siberia and used as a medicinal plant as early as 2,700BC. Marco Polo brought the plant to Europe where it arrived in Britain in the 16th century and it was then used to treat stomach and liver complaints.

Varieties: there are about 50 (!) species of rhubarb.

Harvesting: strikingly pink, forced rhubarb is picked by candlelight in heated forcing sheds – somehow, this seems entirely appropriate for such a pretty, delicate vegetable.

Earlier today I was given a bottle of home-made elderflower cordial by one of our neighbours. I thought it was a little bit early to go picking elderflower heads, but apparently not.

Need to make a mental note to get down to the woods soon before all the elderflower bushes are bare….which will be very quickly once the retired brigage get on to it. It is the same with blackberries every one. One morning you are out with the dogs and spot loads of bushes heavy with fruit, the next day: all gone! 

It is also a really nice thing to do with children, who can make the cordial themselves with a little bit of help from a grown-up. See if they can taste the difference between the (often) chemical laden shop-bought variety and the real thing!

It is made me think about doing something this weekend with elderflowers ….. and rhubarb.

Talking about elder flowers: I attended a roundtable meeting earlier this week to discuss the theme: “can you design your way out of a recession”. To keep us all fortified, and the conversation flowing I guess, delicious Courvoisier cognac cocktails were served. I tried one made with elderflower which was delightful (and this is real praise from someone who usually doesn’t like cocktails). Now that I have got cordial on tap, I am going to try and replicate the delicious drink.

It may take my mind of the rhubarb.

Proost!

Enjoy the sunshine,

Monique